The 2013 Chardonnay Ma Douce comes from the high-elevation ridge top vineyard, two ridges in from the Pacific Ocean, and is bottled without fining or filtration (essentially the formula for all of the wines in the Morlet portfolio). It displays loads of tangerine oil, brioche, honeysuckle, and nectarine. It is full-bodied, beautifully pure, dense and capable of lasting at least 10-15 years. Robert Parker 96Run, don’t walk – take your checkbook or credit card out and splurge for the Luc Morlet Wine Express. Morlet, who comes from a family of winemakers in Champagne and consults at the Peter Michael Winery where his brother Nicolas is in charge of the winemaking, has his own operation on Route 29 north of St. Helena. His Napa cuvées were reviewed in Issue #215. His Sonoma offerings are remarkable wines that are about as good as wines made from Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah can be. Morlet is not only a fabulous winemaking talent, he knows how to bring the French savoir faire of complexity, elegance and precision to the ripe, concentrated, intense fruit of California.