2005 Dominique Laurent Les Epenots Pommard Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes France

$79.99 USD $89.99 USD

Representing a single barrel, from vines he says were planted in 1898 and which "while they might be old, are still in great form," Laurent's Pommard Les Epenots Vieilles Vignes displays an unusually intense cyanic, fruit bit concentration and iodine minerality whose common bitterness is balanced by diverse berry fruit of exceptional, almost port-like, desiccated concentration and sweetness. Yet, there is lift and vivacity here (and only 13.5% alcohol), as well as exceptional refinement of tannins, and practically endless, caressing length. Regardless of what one knows about Laurent's methods or has been told about these pre-phylloxera vines, just tasting this wine brings to mind thoughts of what Burgundy might have been like – and is often said to have been like – a century ago. "It's a Pinot from another world," remarks Laurent, evidently anticipating my thoughts. If I could, I'd want to follow this assiduously for at least 12-15 years. But assuming I had only a very few bottles to my name, I would want to wait half that long before opening the first of them.

94 Points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate