2017 Perillo Coda di Volpe Bianco Irpinia Campania Italy
Campania's whites are not as well known as they should be, apart from Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino. The variety Coda di Volpe can be excellent. This one is very unusual: the 80-90 year old vines are interplanted with Aglianico in the Taurasi vineyards; after picking, the fruit is destemmed, crushed and left for about 12 hours on the skins, then pressed in the same basket press they use for the reds. After fermentation the wine is aged for about 2 1/2 years on the fine lees in a stainless steel tank, then filtered and bottled.
Beautiful intense pale yellow color; aroma of herbs, white peach, a hint of citrus, and wet stones; long, fresh, and slightly phenolic on the palate, delicious to drink when released but I'd be surprised if this didn't age well, it has the structure and the intensity of flavor. The winemaking is kind of rustic but the flavors are anything but.